By train and ferry
You don't have to leave the ground to make the most of Malta, says Mark Smith who reached the island by train and ferry:
Tell someone you're travelling to Malta by train and ferry, and the first thing they are likely to ask is how long the journey will take. "A couple of days southbound, a day or two for the return," you say, nonchalantly. They wrinkle their noses, perhaps contemplating the discomfort and exhaustion of a long-haul flight. But with overland travel you're not strapped to a seat willing each minute to pass. The journey is part of the holiday, and there's lots to see and do on the way. Time with family or friends on a train or ship is time well spent, a chance to catch up over a glass or two, free from the day-to-day distractions of doorbells and call centres.
I spent a week in Malta with a couple of friends. We took the Eurostar to Paris, where we changed on to the sleeper to Venice. We chatted into the night over dinner in the restaurant car, as French villages swept past in the moonlight. Next morning, the train rumbled slowly across the causeway into central Venice, a full day of exploring ahead of us. Another overnight train whisked us south to Sicily...At Messina, the train is shunted on to a ferry, and you can stay in your carriage or climb on deck to watch Sicily loom in the morning mist. Once across the straits, the train hugs the Sicilian coastline all the way to Syracuse.
The evening catamaran from Pozzallo, south of Syracuse, takes just 90 minutes to Malta. We sailed into Valletta harbour after dark, the lights of the capital ablaze to the right and those of Vittoriosa to the left, with a sense of arrival that air travellers will never know. We stepped ashore on to one of the friendliest islands in the Mediterranean, welcomed by people who share 150 years of their history with Britain, but who appear none the worse for it. Indeed, the Maltese seem to have a soft spot for Brits..
At the top of our list was Mdina, Malta's former capital in the centre of the island, a traffic-free walled city full of palaces, churches and religious houses. We took a bus to Cirkewwa for the ferry to Gozo; and on a boat trip around the coast we visited the "azure window" rock archway and Fungus Rock, named for its medicinal fungus cultivated by the Knights of Malta...






