Boys with bangers

Matthew Browne from the UK blogs about his 'malta experience', From Matt's Blog:

We've been here for three and a bit days now, amd its going well so far. The first day we spent exploring the local area (Mellieha), which it a really nice little village on a hill. There isn't a great deal to the place but it's plenty for us. Down the hill is the beach front, where there is the normal range of hotels/bars etc. It is one of the few sandy beaches on the island, it might even be the biggest (not sure).

Day 2 (during the day) we braved the local bus's, which are just fantastic. It's a little like an island wide rollercoaster! They are all really old style buses (1950's Bedford style) that have been kept running by some small engineering miracle. To illustrate the point, one lady crossed herself as the bus pulled away! The first ride took us to mosta where we stopped to see the dome (thumping great church). But it was closed to visitors and we were too naked to go in (we had shorts on).

The next ride was to the capital (Valletta) via Floriana (where M&D where born). The city was packed with locals on a Saturday shopping mission. It's a beautiful place with a very wide range of different buildings and statues etc. In the evening we went to one of the local fiestas. This is where they celebrate their patron saints' day by marching statues through the streets and setting off fireworks. They really don't mess about on the firework front! The big bangs are ground shaking, and the catherine wheels are just plain nuts. They even give bangers to the small boys to keep the crowd on their toes!

Last day; Gozo; Sliema & Valletta; Photos

14th Street Girl

14th Street Girl is in her late 20s but "getting younger like Benjamin Button". She lives in Washington DC on 14th Street, where "one alternately trips over luxury condominiums and homeless people". From Tuesdays with (Maltese) Morrie:

Lest I let my tan begin to fade, it looks like I will be on the road again soon (fingers, toes, and eyes crossed)... my 87-year-old Maltese grandfather, who like me is a huge opera buff and an all-around cool guy, calls me the other day to let me know this up-and-coming Maltese tenor, Joseph Calleja (who we saw at the Met in Rigoletto in January and he ended up coming to dinner at our house - we did not make him sing for his supper, which I thought I was nice of us) is singing in Mdina, Malta in early July and do I want to go? Oh, and, gee, Jose Carreras is giving a concert, too and we're going to go to that. So then my dad calls and asks me to do him a favor and go to Malta for two weeks with my grandfather.

I guess everyone is worried about my grandfather getting around at his age, although I have to say (knock on wood), the guy's a champ for 87, he's probably going to beat me on the swim out to St. Paul's Island. Also, my cousin Charlie (70+ year old cousin at that) who is the most fun will be hanging out with us, so it'll be all the people I love there and I'll have them all to myself. Full disclosure - there is no full disclosure, there is no question that I am going to be in Malta faster than you can say old guys who love La Traviata. Oh, and I'm driving...

The big question

Following the latest crisis to hit the Mediterranean, Nigel Morris asks how we should tackle the crisis over migrants desperate to reach Europe?

..Malta is struggling to cope with the human tide, with nearly 200 illegal immigrants arriving in the past week alone. It is refusing to accept any more newcomers, leaving boatloads of Africans in a diplomatic limbo. They include a group of 26 stranded on a Spanish tug-boat and another boatload eventually that was rescued by the Italian navy after clinging for several days to a vast tuna net. At least their lives were saved...The pressure points have changed over recent years. When the Balkans were in turmoil, large numbers fled across the Adriatic. By the turn of the century, Iranians, Iraqis and Afghans were squeezing into lorries that brought them to the West. Now it's the seas around southern Europe that are the focus of desperate activity..

The authorities in Malta now face an acute dilemma with any illegal immigrants who manage to land - and no mainland to send them to. It has in the past taken a liberal approach to them, but has recently declared that it is full and unable to accommodate any more. The issue is one of the most acute problems facing most European governments - and one that nations in the front line are struggling to cope with on their own. They should be backed up by Frontex, the EU's borders agency, which has 20 aeroplanes, 30 helicopters and more than 100 vessels at its disposal. But its help has been patchy, and plans for a rapid-response team have yet to materialise. In fact, Spain has blamed the absence of Frontex craft as the main reason for this month's unexpected influx of migrants into the Canaries...

Update: IHT: EU concedes failure in migration policy

'Like the Wild West'

Peter Popham in Rome writes in today's Independent(UK) on how migrants clung desperately to life towed on a tuna net across the Mediterranean "by a Maltese tug that refused to take them on board" after their boat sank. Popham writes that up to 10,000 people are believed to have drowned trying to cross the Mediterranean from Africa:

..Malta and Libya, where they had embarked on their perilous journey, washed their hands of them. Eventually, they were rescued by the Italian navy. The astonishing picture shows them hanging on to the buoys that support the narrow runway that runs around the top of the net. They had had practically nothing to eat or drink. Last night, on the island of Lampedusa, the 27 young men - from Ghana, Nigeria, Cameroon, Sudan and other countries - told of their ordeal. As their flimsy boat from Libya floundered adrift for six days, two fishing boats failed to rescue them. On Wednesday, the Maltese boat, the Budafel allowed them to mount the walkway but refused to have them on board.

This is the latest snapshot from the killing seas of the southern Mediterranean, the stretch of water at the European Union's southern gate that the UN High Commissioner for Refugees says "has become like the Wild West, where human life has no value any more and people are left to their fate". On Friday, The Independent reported how a Maltese plane photographed a crazily overloaded boat in this area carrying 53 Eritreans, several of whom telephoned desperate pleas for help to relatives in London, Italy and Malta. The boat disappeared with all hands before anything was done to save them. They died, not because help was unavailable, but because no-one wanted to do anything. Malta is full up. Libya, where these voyages begin, takes no responsibility. One might think that the EU's new frontiers agency, Frontex, had a part to play. But its "rapid response team" remains on the drawing board.

Frontex is expected to begin joint patrols in the Mediterranean shortly, following a brief pilot programme last year. But the critical stretch between Malta and Libya is to be controlled by Malta and Greece, and the hard-nosed attitude of the Maltese in recent weeks does not inspire optimism. The Maltese captain of the Budafel refused to land the men, he later explained, because he had $1m-worth of tuna in the pen. If he had taken them to Malta, the trip would have taken 12 days, given the tug's slow speed. There, he would have found himself in the middle of a diplomatic wrangle. "I couldn't take the risk of losing this catch," he said.

The captain informed the Maltese authorities. The Maltese phoned the Libyans - the Africans were about 60 miles from the Libyan coast, within Libya's area of competence for search and rescue. Libya said they would send a helicopter to the spot and throw down a life raft. Malta - by this point Prime Minister Lawrence Gonzi had become directly involved - said that was unacceptable. They gave Malta's armed forces the task of persuading the Libyans to pick the men up. The 27 had by this point spent three days and nights standing on the walkway, which is 18 inches wide. The Budafel's captain said he wouldn't mind being on the walkway for an hour. Any longer - under the fierce sun, or in the chill of the night - no thanks...

Cover story; More news here

Ghost Hunting in Malta

Fiona Galea Debono interviews American author John Kachuba, who intends to include a section on Malta in a book he is writing on international ghosts. Kachuba, who has Sicilian grandparents, is also writing his travel memoirs on Malta in a "more personalised alternative to a guidebook":

Mr Kachuba has always been intrigued by "what comes after, be it ghosts, or whether we go on - the philosophical and metaphysical questions". But his interest deepened as he got into his books on ghosts and ghost hunting of which he has already written three. "I am getting more interested in the idea of afterlife and spirituality, asking what happens to us when we die to people of different cultures and religious beliefs to find out what their ideas are. "Almost every culture in the world believes in spirits, or ghosts..." And Malta too has its fair share of ancient history, ghost stories and legends, he has found during his stay.

There is supposed to be a ghost in St James Cavalier and Mr Kachuba plans to sniff him out, while even the Manoel Theatre should be haunted - by the mistress of Grand Master de Vilhena, who built it. A survey in the US found that about 54 per cent of Americans believe in ghosts - a figure Mr Kachuba considers to be "pretty high" and that is probably the case worldwide, if not higher. Each chapter of his book, which is still in an embryonic stage, is dealing with a different country - Malta being one of them. And to make it more profound, Mr Kachuba also intends to talk about Maltese cultural beliefs.

His verbal narration of the Maltese stories he has heard already manages to capture one's attention; let alone his writings - in keeping with the theory he is imparting to the students of his creative writing class that, "although it may seem obvious, you have to write something the reader is going to read; something he is going to start and not put it down". Although he has only been in Malta for a few weeks, the island has hit him. "I am fascinated by its culture - from the history to the architecture, the arts, its cathedrals and beautiful beaches. "Americans do not visit Malta; it is not a holiday destination for us. When I was leaving the country, the first question everyone asked me was: Where is Malta? I think it is embarrassing! That is how ignorant Americans are, and I think the island would be a great destination for them..

"This is a beautiful country, with beautiful weather, and I think it would appeal to a wide variety of Americans. "I intend to write and publish travel articles on Malta when I get back, but I would also like to write a book. I do not write your standard guidebooks, however, so it would be more of a memoir, with my personal observations - Malta as seen through my eyes." Being in Malta for six weeks, and given the way the couple travels - they are not tourists, they meet the locals and experience their way of life - are additional bonuses for Mr Kachuba to achieve his aim. "I can tell you about the beautiful churches and the forts, but I can also tell the Americans about the people and what it is like to be here... Instead of being a disconnected reader, I am a character in my book..."

John Kachuba on the Jerry Pippin Show

Missing boat

A small boat adrift off Malta with at least 53 migrants on board has gone missing, the UN refugee agency says, from BBC News:

..It was last spotted on Monday by Malta's air force, which took pictures showing people apparently bailing water out of the overloaded vessel. Maltese boats were later sent out but failed to find the immigrants - who are said to include children. "We are very concerned for their safety," UNHCR spokeswoman Laura Boldrini told the BBC News Website. She said those on board contacted relatives via a satellite phone on Monday. They said the engine had broken down and water was coming into the boat.

The immigrants have not been seen or heard from since then. Attempts to call their satellite phone have failed. "We are in a state of anguish," an Eritrean woman who lives in the Italian city of Bologna and whose brother appears to be on the boat told the UNHCR. The UNHCR has urged governments in the region to increase efforts to locate and rescue them. "According to our experience a missing boat can remain adrift for 20 days," she said. "The authorities must continue the search so we can be sure that everything has been done," she said. Ms Boldrini said she believed the boat could be located between Malta and the Libyan coast. Malta - a small island that is now a EU member - is a leading destination for African migrants. At least 3,500 reached the island over the past two years...

54 immigrants reach Malta

Shaun Micallef's Online World

Shaun Micallef is an Australian comedian of Maltese descent who currently lives in Melbourne. He hosted the comedy TV series 'The Micallef Program' from 1998 to 2001 on ABC TV. Chris Beck talks to Shaun Micallef in the Australian Age:

Shaun Micallef often does his Vega breakfast show on an empty stomach, but he might have a banana or an apple before noon. He doesn't drink coffee and has just given up orange juice. "I think it's important to give up something every now and then," he says, "Occasionally I go, 'I won't have butter this week,' just to deny myself something. I set myself pathetic tasks. I'm not competitive by nature so I challenge myself against myself."..

Micallef greatly admires the troubled comic actor, Peter Sellers, largely because there was no one like him. During our chat, sans food or beverages, we talk about Micallef's aversion to becoming a celebrity, his single-mindedness, his preference for a small circle of friends, and his anxiety in the company of more than a handful of people.

Personality radio is a new environment for Micallef, whose television comedies have been tightly scripted. Even on his axed tonight show on Channel Nine he says he was playing a Tonight Show character, not being himself. "I've never been a great fan of improvisation," he says, "But there are corners of television and obviously radio that benefit from being a real human being. And there are a lot of other things out there that are entertaining or are funny that have nothing to do with comedy."

He prepares very little material for the radio show and between banter with co-hosts Denise Scott and Beverley O'Connor, and the odd surreal moment, serious topics are discussed, including the new IR reforms. He disagrees that he has to be likeable on radio. In fact, you shouldn't be likeable. I would never deliberately ask (the audience) to like me because that's too needy..

When I last interviewed Micallef, six years ago, he apologised for not being interesting enough and for his life being so even, bereft of the peaks and troughs that are considered defining and character-building. He also recounted a recurring dream that had him entering various floors of a very tall theatre through the ceiling or the walls. Andrew Denton interpreted it for him as not feeling deserving of the position he was in. But Micallef hasn't had that dream for a long time..

You were an insurance lawyer, middle class, you don't drink, you don't smoke, you don't drink coffee, you would rather live in Adelaide and you refuse film roles if there is any partial nudity. Are you happy with that or would you like to be more exciting? I'd like to quieten down a bit, actually. The reason I don't drink is that I was a terrible drunk (20 years ago). I was a terrible lush. I was probably boring, telling people I loved them; God forbid I should ever say that to anybody. I would wake up unconscious on a compost heap, or worse still in my bed and I couldn't remember how I got home...

Unofficial fan site

'Miracle' recovery

The testimony of a British surgeon about the "miraculous" recovery of a baby has helped pave the way for the canonisation of Malta's first saint, by Jonathan Petre and Simon Caldwell in The Daily Telegraph:

The testimony of a British surgeon about the "miraculous" recovery of a baby has helped pave the way for the canonisation of Malta's first saint. Anil Dhawan, a professor of paediatric hepatology at King's College Hospital, London, told The Daily Telegraph yesterday that there was no scientific explanation for the recovery of a Maltese boy with "devastating" liver failure. Dr Dhawan was speaking for the first time about his evidence to a Roman Catholic church tribunal, which investigated whether the child's improvement could be ascribed to Blessed George Preca, a 20th century Maltese priest who died in 1962.

A glove that had touched the body of the priest was placed on the boy by his parents, both devout Catholics, as he lay in a critical condition in King's College hospital nearly six years ago. The "miracle cure" has been declared genuine by the Vatican and Pope Benedict XVI will canonise Blessed George in Rome in 11 days' time.
Dr Dhawan, who is leading research into whether liver cell injections can replace transplants, said: "There was a 90 per cent plus chance that he wasn't going to survive without a liver transplant. But he survived. "Furthermore, he improved on his own. Acute liver failure in children is quite a devastating illness. The majority of them die. Scientifically I do not have an explanation for this child's recovery."

Dr Dhawan said that he felt "privileged" to be involved in the canonisation, adding that he would be flying out to Rome for it. The boy, who has not been identified, developed severe liver complications just days after his birth in July 2001. He was examined in Malta but his condition was so grave that he was transferred to King's College Hospital, the home of the world's largest and most expert paediatric liver centre..

The process of canonisation begins with an investigation into the person's character, after which they can receive the title "Venerable". One miracle is required for beatification, which brings with it the title "Blessed", and two for canonisation as a saint. Miracles are cures that cannot be explained, which are "organic, immediate and irreversible".

More by Simon Caldwell; Life of Dun Gorg; Malta Media special feature

Canonization echo

Tony Vella of Kingston, Ontario, hopes that Fr George Preca’s story will echo long after his June 3 canonization, writes Deborah Gyapong in Canadian Catholic News.

Vella, 64, who is related to the charismatic Maltese priest he knew as Dun Gorg, hopes Catholics today will learn the virtues of their faith – just Dun Gorg (1880-1962) taught the Maltese to deepen their understanding of the gospel. When he began his ministry, Malta, an island nation off the coast of Italy, was largely illiterate and though Catholic, the faith was mingled with superstition and not deeply-rooted. Vella, who served Dun Gorg as an altar boy in his native town of Hamrun, calls him a “pioneer of the lay apostolate.”

“He was my mother’s uncle,” said Vella in a telephone interview from Kingston in May days before he would join 4,000 Maltese from around the world at the canonization ceremony in Rome. “I used to see him pretty well every day.” Dun Gorg’s mission began, when as a deacon, when started “religious discussions” with sailors in the Grand Harbor area, and building relationships with local youths. But shortly after his 1906 ordination, he had what Vella described as a “very charismatic experience” that led him to spend three months alone, praying and meditating in a loft, pondering the Bible, especially the New Testament..

Dun Gorg used to speak from the back of a pickup truck, sitting in a chair by a small table and a statue of Our Lady. He would often arrive unannounced. “People would close their stores, leave their place of work, mothers would go with their kids, people with problems at home would come and listen to his sermon,” Vella said. “When he talked about aspects of the gospel, his voice often trembled and you could feel the emotions associated with the topic he was talking about,” he said. Dun Gorg would lay the palm of his hand on the forehead of those who came seeking his help for family problems, illness, or financial difficulties. Vella said they would “leave with a sense of hopefulness and reassurance that his prayers are going to make a difference.” ...

Update: Canonisation celebrations announced

Rogue Classicism

Professor Horace Caesar Roger Vella, who lectured at the University of Zimbabwe for 10 and a half years, explains why the Maltese should take the Classics more seriously. From RogueClassicism:

..It is important, that in the first two years some very basic elements of Latin and Ancient Greek have already been presented to the students, such as the Greek alphabet and Latin maxims. Obviously, the teachers of these subjects need to be qualified in Classics, and not in History.

It would be interesting if this Classical Culture and Civilisation component also included exposure to Arabic culture. In the same way bread and water are necessary for our daily life so is culture. It’s unfortunate that all aspects of education are becoming geared towards getting a job rather than towards knowledge for knowledge’s sake. Sadly, the Department of Education has never consulted me about anything that has to do with the study of the Classics in schools..

Lately some books have been translated into Latin and Ancient Greek. For example there now is Harrius Potter et Philosophi Lapis, its Ancient Greek equivalent and Alicia in Terra Mirabili; while the website Nuntii Latini presents current news in Latin. Do you think these publications help garner more publicity and interest?

In particular for younger students, these books are very inviting and encourage children to study Latin further. I would also like to see more books in school libraries that deal with mythology and Classical History, in Maltese or in English. These books can be about daily life in Roman times or the eruption of the Vesuvius. Anybody who teaches Classics in Maltese is a pioneer. Personally I have translated into Maltese and I am working on a list of proper names from the Classical World and their equivalent in Maltese..

My last point is that sadly Malta is considered a very poor nation culture wise. We are buried in history and culture yet many Maltese do not know about their heritage. Tourism is one of Malta’s biggest income generators, so if the people are educated more about their heritage they can interact better with the tourists offering information about sites rather than only offering quizzical looks.

Condé Nast Traveller

Ariadne Massa reports on the Italian edition of Condé Nast Traveller which dedicated its May edition to Malta, "featuring the island in all its diversity":

Malta's vibrant culture, rich heritage and traditional gastronomy have been splashed across this month's Italian edition of Condé Nast Traveller magazine. This prestigious monthly publication, the leading magazine in the travel industry, has dedicated all its 225 pages to discovering Malta's hidden assets and Gozo's treasures. With a circulation of about 80,000 copies in Italy, the magazine portrays all the islands' facets in a way that should entice Italians to hop on the next plane to Malta.

Landing all this publicity was no easy deal and Dominic Micallef, Malta Tourism Authority's segment head of history and culture, has been working on it for the past two years. The idea started brewing in Mr Micallef's head when he returned to Malta, after spending a few years serving as director at MTA's office in Milan. "The project required perseverance and Condé Nast needed assurances that a copy dedicated solely to Malta would sell. Plus, to get into their schedule you really have to think ahead," he said..."Many Italians tend to equate Malta with English language schools and the sun, but this magazine provides the perfect showcase with colourful photos of our life, sights, and sounds," he said..

While happy to have achieved this goal, Mr Micallef is not about to sit back; two weeks ago he paid a visit to Vogue House in London, to entice them to publish a Condé Nast Traveller magazine in English, with MTA support. "They were interested, but now it's a question of whether they want to put the investment behind it. We'll continue to work on it," he said. MTA wants to go a step further and even have a similar edition in Spanish. With Italy already in the bag, it has a good chance of capturing new markets.

Uncomfortable questions

Alexander Radwan, a member of the Bureau of the European People's Party who sits on the European Parliament's Committee on Economic and Monetary Affairs, has criticised the endorsement by EU institutions of Malta's Euro bid. David Lindsay reports:

The chairman of the European Peoples Party’s parliamentary group Joseph Daul has welcomed the European Commission’s endorsement of Malta’s euro adoption bid – two days after the EPP economy and finance spokesperson cast a dark shadow of doubt on Malta’s euro aspirations. Mr Daul’s praise, curiously, comes just after Member of European Parliament Alexander Radwan – who serves as the EPP’s spokesperson for the European Parliament’s Committee on Economic and Monetary Affairs – unleashed an attack against the Commission’s approval for Malta and Cyprus to adopt the euro on 1 January... The move could be interpreted as a pre-emptive gag against any future uncomfortable questions Mr Radwan might intend raising after he tabled the issue in the European Parliament on Tuesday – the day before the EC was to give Malta and Cyprus its nod of approval for euro adoption.

Speaking in the European Parliament, Mr Radwan questioned the accuracy of the fiscal data presented by Malta and asked why the country was being considered euro-worthy when its level of public debt had not been reduced to below 60 per cent of gross domestic product (GDP) as required by the Maastricht Criteria. Contacted this week, Mr Radwan insisted there is a “substantial need to clarify” the matters raised and deemed the Commission’s move “anti-democratic”. He commented, “Firstly, given the past experiences with Greece and Hungary, we are questioning whether the Commission is sure the data supplied by Malta is accurate and we are asking the Commission to verify such data and provide a guarantee that it is correct..

“We will of course be asking the European Commission to follow up on these matters, which will also be discussed within the Committee,” Mr Radwan added. The EC’s decision will need to be approved at the next meeting of European economy and finance ministers, again by the European Council, while another meeting of finance ministers will set the final and irrevocable exchange rate between the Maltese lira and the euro in July. The European Parliament, however, has not been left out of the loop and it will also be consulted on the decision. The EP’s response and agreement will be needed before the July meeting.

Paradise malta

The recently launched website paradisemalta.com with it's catchphrase "are you just a tourist? or a traveler?" is taking visitors on a virtual journey around the Maltese islands. The website is privately owned but director Ian Vella is looking to strike a partnership with the tourism authorities. One section of paradisemalta.com focuses on frequent flyer programs and low cost flights. This article by Tanja Cilia that first appeared in Malta Airport magazine Grip is reproduced in Paradise Malta:

Some secrets are exciting, filling your heart and your mind with the feel-good factor. When the secret is a melting-pot of cultures and peoples, words and wisdom, history and tradition…..you just have to kiss and tell! Indeed, that is the driving force behind the new campaign being launched by the Malta Tourism Authority in its new vision for promoting Malta overseas. "The Mediterranean 's best kept secret", is not just a slogan. It is not just the truth, either – but a combination of both that is set to create a new awareness of our Jewel in the Mediterranean Republic .

There is synergy from different factors flowing seamlessly together to create a perfect blend of savvy, bling, and all the necessary customer care that will gear the whole package towards a steady rise in the number of tourist arrivals not merely in High Season, but throughout the whole year. Malta is not just sun, sea and sand. It is history and culture, a unique Navel of the World where one finds both the oldest free-standing monuments on the planet, but also the newest, sharpest, arts and culture. In between these two extremes lies the rich heritage we have inherited and made ours throughout the centuries...

Naufragio al largo di Malta

The news of a boat with illegal immigrants that capized in Maltese waters was widely reported in the Italian media. From La Repubblica:

Un barcone con una trentina di clandestini sarebbe naufragato la notte scorsa nel mare agitato, a circa 75 miglia a Sud di Malta. Lo ha riferito un immigrato tratto in salvo stamani da un peschereccio maltese, il Laura II. Il comandante del motopesca, Salvatore Ellul, ha subito dato l'allarme via radio alle autorità de La Valletta, che hanno inviato un elicottero e due motovedette nella zona dove sarebbe avvenuto il disastro. Le ricerche dei dispersi fino ad ora non hanno dato alcun esito.

L'unico superstite, che è stato trasferito con un elicottero delle forze armate maltesi nell'ospedale di San Luca, ha raccontato che il barcone era partito dalla Libia due giorni fa diretto verso le coste della Sicilia. L'uomo è in condizioni gravi. Intanto nella notte le motovedette e l'areo della marina militare maltese hanno sospeso le ricerche che dovrebbero riprendere all'alba. Le autorità albanesi hanno chiesto il supporto della marina militare italiana. Nella zona è in corso un temporale con mare e vento a forza cinque.

Life after Eurovision

Raphael Vassallo talks to Toni Sant and Guze Stagno about the Maltese obsession with the Eurovision song contest:

It’s strange how, in years when Malta performs particularly well in the Eurovision Song Contest, no mention is ever made of political backscratching, or how ludicrous the entire neighbourly voting ethos really is. And yet, when Malta fares miserably, it is always a case of “not having friendly neighbours” to give us those much needed 12 points. Not only that: but after Olivia Lewis failed to even qualify last Thursday, l-orizzont ran a front page story suggesting that Malta boycott the annual international competition in protest. Could it possibly have come to this? Could we be so blinded by the glitz and glitter of Europe’s kitchiest festival, that we’ve actually mistaken it for something important?

Toni Sant, internet pioneer and long-standing critic of Malta’s attitude towards the ESC, is the first to point out that, “as a nation we appear obsessed with the Eurovision Song Contest.”...Sant – whose own contribution to Malta’s music scene takes the form of a regular podcast series celebrating Maltese music throughout the world – evidently shares Mifsud’s concern that the Eurovision has somehow served to cook up an artificial impression of “Malteseness”. But isn’t part of the contest’s more immediate local appeal that it gives the country a reason to celebrate (or commiserate, as the case may be) on a purely national level? Sant disagrees: “The Eurovision is not really bringing the nation together the way we’d like to think,” he points out. “It just brings together some people who disagree on everything else, be it political party affiliation, village band club support, etc.”

Before last year’s edition, Sant had accurately predicted the eventual triumph of Finland’s demonic entry, ‘Hard Rock Hallelujah’, performed by rock-trolls Lordi. He had suggested back then that Malta’s only hope of salvation was Xtruppaw: a young, irreverent and above all fun local punk band, with more than a hint of revolution in its anti-establishment lyrics. “Xtruppaw doesn’t exist in isolation,” Sant points out, in reference to a growing number of successful local bands in non-mainstream genres such as punk, reggae, ska and indie rock. “Then again, simply sending someone like Xtuppaw to the Eurovision without the appropriate financial and promotional backing is like throwing Christians to the lions…”

Sant is not the only notorious ESC critic to advocate an altogether different approach to next year’s edition in Belgrade. Guzè Stagno, novelist and self-styled “tortured artist”, thinks time is ripe to put the Maltese language back onto the European stage. “The way I see it, singing songs in English is so-o-o overrated,” the author of Inbid Ta’ Kuljum and Xemx Wisq Sabiha decrees. “Let’s send a song in Maltese next year, just for a change.” Stagno concurs with both Mifsud and Sant that ESC has somehow distorted all notions of cultural identity. The result is that our choice of entry each year appears designed to reflect European expectations, rather than to showcase what we are actually capable of producing on a musical level... .”

Clearing hurdles

The news of the European Commission's endorsement of Malta's entry into the Euro zone in January has been reported widely in the European media. However, in a seperate assessment, also published today, the European Central bank stated that Malta has failed to meet the EU convergence criteria on keeping low government debt required to join the Euro. Marilyn Gerlach writes for Thomson Financial and Forbes:

The European Central Bank said Cyprus and Malta have failed to meet the EU convergence criteria on keeping their government debts at low levels in order to join the euro. It said for the year to March, the government debts of both countries breached the 60 pct of GDP criteria for euro entrants but passed the criteria on inflation, long-term interest rates and budget deficits...But the ECB made no recommendations on the timing of the two countries' entry into the euro. The EU Commission today said both could join the euro on Jan 1, 2008, as scheduled..

It said both countries need to continue on a sustainable and credible path of fiscal consolidation based on structural measures to improve its fiscal performance by tangibly reducing its high debt ratio. Malta's government debt-to-GDP ratio dropped to 66.5 pct in 2006 and is forecast to be 65.9 pct in 2007. The ECB said Malta needs to maintain moderate wage developments both in the public and private sector. Commenting on both countries' 12-month average inflation, the ECB said it was at 2.0 pct for Cyprus and 2.2 pct for Malta -- both well below the limit for euro entry of 3.0 pct resulting from the convergence criteria.

For Malta, the ECB said latest inflation forecasts indicate a range from 1.4 pct to 2.4 pct for 2007 and from 2.1 pct to 2.4 pct for 2008, with upside risks to inflation linked with a potential renewed increase in oil prices. Cyprus recorded a fiscal deficit of 1.5 pct of GDP and for Malta, it was 2.6 pct -- both below the 3 pct euro entry criterion...In terms of long-term interest rates, Cyprus had 4.2 pct during the reference period and 4.3 pct for Malta. The limit was 6.4 pct. The ECB said in recent years, Maltese long-term interest rates and their differential with government bond yields in the euro area have generally declined...

From IHT: Malta clears hurdles to Euro zone; Report by the European Commission; Report by the European Central Bank

Hysteria

Immanuel Mifsud takes a critical view of the reactions to Malta's Eurovision performance:

..Issa din il-kantanta ħadmet ħafna biex il-pajjiż li rrappreżentat (il-pajjiż li investa fiha eluf ta' liri biex tkun tista' tmur tkanta Ħelsinki) jgħaddi mis-semi-finali, imma din il-missjoni falliet. Naħseb li din hi xiħaġa minn ewl id-dinja: jekk qiegħed tikkompeti tista' tirbaħ, tista' titlef. Kollox sew, kien hemm ħafna li ħassewhom iddiżappuntati għax ippretendew (bħalma jagħmlu kull santissma sena) li l-kanzunetta Maltija (kantata bl-Ingliż) kellha mhux biss tgħaddi għall-finali, imma kellha tirbaħ l-istess finali wkoll. Kollox sew, hija xiħaġa naturali li jekk ikollok fiduċja fik innifsek, li jekk tgħożż daqstant il-kultura ta' pajjiżek, li jekk tħobb daqstant lil pajjiżek, tħossok iddiżappuntat. Imma dak li deher fuq il-programm Xarabank l-għada ta' din it-telfa, kien taħlita ta' isteriżmu patetiku ma' dak grottesk li fakkar li xi wħud li l-parrokkjaliżmu għadu verita' sagrosanta f'Malta..

Id-diżappunt tiegħi huwa li l-pajjiż reġa' nefaq eluf kbar ta' liri biex intellgħu trupp għal festival li sar id-daħqa ta' kulħadd - minbarra ta' dawk li filwaqt li jgħidu li ma jeħduhx bis-serjeta' issibhom hemm bl-id tag daqs dinja fuq sidirhom. Id-diżappunt tiegħi hu li għadna nemmnu li din hija xi okkażjoni importanti fejn il-pajjiż jieħu exposure madornali u li grazzi għal dan kollu r-rati tat-turiżmu se jisparaw is-sajf li ġej. Id-diżappunt tiegħi hu li programm bħal Xarabank, jekk ma jagħmel xejn tajjeb, jirnexxilu joħroġ fil-beraħ is-sindromi l-aktar patetiċi ta' "Malta li qamet maħsuda l-għada tas-semi finali" u allura jfakkarni f'dawk l-affarijiet li nagħmel minn kollox biex ninsa. Id-diżappunt tiegħi hu li għadna nemmnu li aħna l-magħżulin u li l-metafora ta' l-Ewropa ta' Kajin mhijiex midfuna għal kollox...

Bird reprieve

The European Commission has welcomed Malta's decision to end its spring hunt early, after the death of 100 buzzards, writes Stephen Mulvey for BBC News:

The protected birds were shot last week as they rested on the island during their migration from Africa to Europe. The EU has threatened Malta with legal action for allowing hunting in spring, before the breeding season. Hunters had been given until 20 May to shoot migrating turtle doves, but the government closed the season early because of attacks on other species. Environment Commissioner Stavros Dimas said the Commission hoped that Malta's early end to the spring hunt "indicates recognition of their obligations under EU law and that spring hunting in future years will not be permitted"..

Dr Andre Raine of Birdlife Malta said the government had been spurred into action by an incident that demonstrated it could not control the level of illegal hunting. "Five hundred honey buzzards tried to roost but they were systematically hunted down and shot - 100 were shot in the course of an hour or so," he said. The incident occurred a day after an overnight attack on Malta's largest afforestation project. Dr Raine said 3,000 pine saplings, planted as shelter for migrating birds, had been uprooted or chopped in half in one night. Until last week, Malta was the only European Union country which allowed a spring hunt...

From Margate to Malta

Brent Slater started blogging before he travelled to Malta, writes Mike England in The Guardian - Prince Edward Island:

..Slater, who hails from Margate, P.E.I., is one of two students from the University of Prince Edward Island who is completing the final weeks of an exchange program with the University of Malta. Slater was not consciously trying to escape the P.E.I. winter by jetting to the island of Malta, but he has no regrets about the chance it has given him to soak up sunshine and over five millennia of Mediterranean culture and civilization. His decision to go to Malta was based on an interest in island studies and after attending classics classes with UPEI professor D.F. Buck on the Greek and Roman civilizations.

Soon after his arrival, Slater knew that he was not going to have an easy time with the official language, Maltese, which he describes as a mixture of Italian and Arabic. But, he says, language has not been an issue. “The Maltese speak English very well. I wish I could return the favour in their language, but it is very difficult for me to even pronounce some of the place names. It’s so different from anything else I’ve come across.” English is the language used exclusively for public entertainment, but Maltese is sometimes inserted for humourous effect.

Slater recently experienced this at the performance of a pantomime. “The panto was neat because it was mostly in English, but there were a few parts where the dame (the main provider of comic relief, played by a male) spoke in Maltese … I had no idea what ‘she’ was talking about, but I kind of liked it that way,” says Slater. Slater notes that Prince Edward Islanders and the Maltese have a few things in common. For example, they take great pride in their homes and gardens, depend heavily on tourists and are very friendly towards visitors...

Ashley Clarke's year to remember in Malta

Broken Eurovision

Caroline Smailes, author of In Search of Adam, recalls childhood memories and laments the lack of Maltese success at this year's Eurovision:

..One of my happiest childhood memories includes a scrap of paper, a pencil and staying at my grandma’s house to watch the Eurovision Song Contest. I have told you that my grandma is Maltese...On Eurovision night we’d always hope that Malta would win. We’d make notes and give scores to each country. But we’d write on our scrap of paper who we thought should come in the top 5. Malta was always number 1.

I’d stay at my grandma’s house with my brother. We’d sit on the floor to be closer to the TV. My granddad would make proper chips for supper. And after all the excitement. I’d go to sleep in her boxroom with a hot hot water bottle. I loved Eurovision nights.

I have been anticipating the Eurovision Song Contest 2007 for a number of months now. I’ve been out today and bought snacks and drinks. I’d even convinced my husband to watch it with me. (With a pencil and a scrap of paper) Then. I went onto the website. Just now. Just before writing this post. To take a peep at the Maltese entry. And. I have … *sob* … found out … *sob* … that Malta was …*sob* … knocked out during the semi-final on May 10th...The Eurovision Song Contest has been broken for me. *sob* I am lost for words. *sob* I have banned The Eurovision Song Contest from my house. And my memory. Forever. *sob*...

Finding strength

Following the Eurovision semi-finals, Olivia Lewis blogs about her disappointment in Helsinki:

The last envelope started with an 'M'. I hoped it would be Malta. But it wasn't. I kept staring at the screen, oblivious of what was happening around me. All of a sudden I felt tears pouring from my eyes. All the pressure and worries of the past three months suddenly caved in on me. It felt like being hit by a huge block of stone falling over from a cliff. All around me I could see my Maltese friends looking shocked and sad. Everyone who had dedicated so much time and work, saw it disintegrate in a matter of minutes.

Mark tried to keep his cool as best as he could. He collected my things and we rushed to the hotel, running away from it all as fast as we could. I went to bed fully clothed, make up and all. I must admit that I spent my first few hours in bed crying and languishing in sleeplessness. Feelings of immense guilt began to seep in. Could I have done more? Wasn't I good enough? What will the Maltese say now that I have not managed to qualify for my country? These are just a few of the thoughts which kept haunting me throughout those painful moments. Finally I slept. Soundly.

I woke up at the sound of the door knocking. Sleepily I came out of bed and opened the door. It was mum and dad standing there with tears in their eyes. I knew they were heartbroken. But they tried to hide it as best as they could. Mum is a tower of strength, especially in the difficult times. I hugged her as I did when I was a little girl afraid of the dark. She said 'Olivia, life goes on. You were wonderful and the Maltese loved you yesterday'. I thought she was saying all this to comfort me, to make me feel good. Then I opened my blog, trembling at the thought of what I would find. 70 comments came up for me to read. I read the first one, then the next and the next.

Was I reading my own blog? How could it be that after I had failed to qualify, the Maltese were sending me all these messages of support. My eyes swelled with tears, this time tears of joy and gratitude to God for making me Maltese. It was at this point that I found the strenght to write this blog. I want to thank all of you who have been sharing my life for the past few months. You have been great company to me especially when the chips were down. I am so grateful to all the Maltese people who have shown such love and support. We did the best we could, but we didn't qualify. And I'm really sorry for this. But Eurovision is like that. You never know what you're going to get...

Toni Sant's reactions

Hitting back

Sarkozy hits back at critics over Maltese cruise, from EuroNews:

The President-elect of France has hit back at critics who have taken him to task over a luxury break, cruising off the Maltese coast. Left-wingers say Nicholas Sarkozy's three day holiday was an ill-judged trip, showing he is out of touch with the problems of ordinary people.

Reacting to the criticism, Sarkozy pointed out he is actually entitled to eight days, adding: "If I had been sworn-in as president of the republic, I would have stayed at work. The constitution gives me these few days, and I want to enjoy them in peace. I know that the French people can reason - and can tell the difference between criticism and politics."

He said the 60-metre yacht Paloma and a private jet had been made available by the billionaire media magnate Vincent Bolloré - a friend of 20 years. Spokesman for the defeated Segolene Royal, Vincent Peillon said Sarkozy is "someone who has campaigned on the factory floor, with the French who get up early, and then immediately turns to a France that is fabulously opulent." In Paris, there was an emotional Council of Ministers meeting, as Jacques Chirac said goodbye at his last gathering after 12 years in power.

Sailing into trouble

The visit by Sarkozy in Malta has attracted some critical attention from sections of the international media and the French political left. Writing in the Guardian, Angelique Chrisafis in Paris, discusses questions being asked over his yacht holiday and opulence at 'odds with people's president pledge':

He has toiled for 30 years to become French president, displaying an energy once likened by his rivals to a turbo-charged Duracell bunny. So when Nicolas Sarkozy departed this week for a three-day break, supporters said it was well-deserved. But the president-elect's brief downtime on a yacht off Malta was yesterday questioned by the Socialist opposition for sending the wrong signal to the nation. Mr Sarkozy is relaxing on the 60-metre (196ft) Le Paloma with his wife, son, a small entourage and five security guards. He was said to be using the time to reflect on his future government and imminent parliamentary elections when he hopes to secure a majority to push through new labour laws and €15bn (£10bn) of tax cuts.

Patrick Menucci, an aide to Ségolène Royal, said the cruise and Mr Sarkozy's decision to stay at one of Paris's most luxurious hotels on the night of his victory were at odds with his message. Mr Sarkozy had promised to be the humbled "president of the people". "Everyone has a right to a holiday. But when you're a president, particularly a French president, I think that everything you do has a meaning," Mr Menucci said. He added that if the boat belonged to Mr Bolloré, it would show Mr Sarkozy's "worrying" link to big business.

An Italian news agency reported Mr Sarkozy telling a Maltese official he had come to the island to "make honourable amends" for a campaign "gaffe". In one of his speeches, he had talked of the need to strengthen the EU's Mediterranean front forgetting to mention Malta, a lapse noticed by the Maltese ambassador to Paris.

The Socialist leader François Hollande yesterday called for an end to anti-Sarkozy street violence. He said: "We are in a republic, where universal suffrage is the only law we know. There can be disappointment, anger, frustration. But the only way to react is to take up your ballots, not other weapons."...

Sarkozy gears up for reform whirlwind by Martin Arnold and Godfrey Grima

Sarkozy in Malta

The decision by French President- elect Nicolas Sarkozy to spend a few days of reflection in Malta, is reported widely by the international press:

French President-elect Nicolas Sarkozy leaves the Fouquet's restaurant on the Champs Elyses, in Paris. Sarkozy headed to Malta Monday for a few days of seclusion with his family a day after his election triumph that promises to usher in radical economic reforms. France's next president Nicolas Sarkozy headed to Malta Monday for a few days of seclusion with his family a day after his election triumph that promises to usher in radical economic reforms.

The 52-year-old president-elect boarded a yacht on the Mediterranean island with wife Cecilia and their 10-year-old son Louis at the start of a three-day break far from the hectic post-election atmosphere in Paris, Maltese and French officials said on condition of anonymity. The family arrived in Malta on a private plane after spending the night in a Champs-Elysees hotel following Sarkozy's convincing electoral win Sunday with 53 percent of the votes to 47 percent for his Socialist rival Segolene Royal.

"He has not had a day off -- including weekends -- in more than five months and he just wants a break..., Today he is the top man. I think he deserves three days to reflect on running the world's fifth-biggest power," said Francois de la Brosse, a close friend of the Sarkozys. Sarkozy, a hyperactive rightwinger who relentlessly manouevred his way to power over the past five years, had pre-planned his post-electoral break to recover from his gruelling campaigning and to mentally ready himself for France's highest office. Ahead of him is an ambitious programme to overhaul France's economy. He has vowed to cut taxes for the wealthy, trim unemployment and curb the power of the country's powerful unions. He will take over from Jacques Chirac as president on May 17...

A combination of Barcelona, Havana and Athens

Darren Barefoot, a writer from Vancouver in Canada, arrives in Malta and moves to Gozo:

We arrived in Malta yesterday, a national holiday. It’s Workers Day, or Labour Day to us, and the country’s in a celebratory mood. Many people are wearing red, the colour of the country’s labour party. Others have fashioned skirts and shawls out of the labour flag. In the evening, there was a big open-air concert at Valetta’s city gates. Earlier there was a pretty good rock band playing–kind of a Maltese Gin Blossoms. Then there was some truly awful Europop (I mistyped that as ‘Europoop’, which is closer to the truth), and now it’s a kind of a rave thing. It’s a very rowdy introduction to a country that will, I think, turn out to seem quite sleepy.

On first impression, the capital city of Valetta feels like a combination of Barcelona, Havana and Athens. It’s got a remarkably consistent asthetic, with everything made from limestone and very few new buildings. There’s a wonderful mix of gothic and orthodox cathedrals, and plenty of palatial facades that occupy entire blocks. The people are friendly, and speak excellent English with an accent somewhere between Greece and Italy. We appeared to be the youngest arrivals at the airport–Malta seems to be a bit of a tourist destination for the bluehair set. We’ll see what things look like tomorrow, when we check out some villas on the sleepier, smaller island of Gozo. Postscript: Things should return to normal around here next Monday, when the Internet man comes by to connect our magic Internet pipe.

BritishJet

Malta’s own low-cost airline, British Jet, is two years old, writes Noel Grima in TMIS:

BritishJet is now in its third year of operations although, according to its competitors, it was not supposed to have survived beyond the first six months. More than any other airline, it was BritishJet that introduced the low cost concept to Malta: in 2000 it started offering fares to London at Lm49 when its competitors were selling theirs for Lm200. It pioneered e-ticketing in Malta in 2003 and now all its competitors have followed its initiative. It was also the first airline in the world to offer half-price discount for pre-booked extra luggage.

Robbie Borg, managing director of BritishJet, announced during a media conference that his airline’s 2007 Winter Schedule will include a low cost double destination package, namely London-Malta-Egypt (Sharm-el-Sheik), hopefully this November with other North African destinations to follow. This is aimed at increasing tourist inflow to Malta during the winter months, but is subject to approval by the Maltese and Egyptian authorities..

Speaking to the media, Mr Borg hinted the airline is considering flights to Libya, possibly from the UK. The airline is also trying to persuade MIA to reduce the high rates it charges. BritishJet pays one third of the Malta rates in the UK airports it uses. It has recently come to an agreement with Air Malta to use the national airline for its ground handling...

Presidential dinners

Former White House social secretary talks about presidential dinners in Malta, writes Eagle staff writer Matthew Watkins:

Laurie Firestone has planned dances for prime ministers, barbecues for senators and receptions for queens. But one of her most vivid memories is from an evening in which she prepared a dinner enjoyed by an aircraft carrier crew. The former White House social secretary spoke to several hundred people at the George Bush Library Friday evening about her time serving under the former president. She was at the library to promote her new book, An Affair to Remeber: State Dinners for Home Entertaining.

In 1989, Firestone said, she accompanied her boss to the Malta Summit, where Bush and Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev met soon after the fall of the Berlin Wall. At the summit, Bush planned to have a luxurious dinner organized by Firestone on an American aircraft carrier. The dinner was to have fine food, expensive American wines and luxurious centerpieces for the two world leaders and their companions.

However, a storm blew through while the dinner was being prepared, turning the sea choppy. "We joked that we didn't know whether to put the Dramamine on the left or the right of the plates," Firestone recalled Friday. When the dinner preparations were finished, Firestone received word that Gorbachev refused to leave his own ship because of the rough waters and the canceled the dinner. Bush instead accompanied Gorbachev on his own boat. "The crew of our ship loved the supper," she said...

Secular vs Religous

Maltese lawyer banned from giving lecture, by MaltaMedia News:

A prominent Maltese gay lawyer has been banned from delivering a lecture on a book he penned, after the Maltese Community Council of Victoria (MCCV) in Australia, decided on Friday that it would “offend the religious sentiments and beliefs of the Maltese,” reported BNews Melbourne Star. Joseph Chetcuti was to give the lecture, entitled ‘Ten Years on: The Pink Book, A Sin, Disorder or Crime and the birth of the gay movement in Malta’, on the 29th May at the Maltese Community Centre.

The Pink Book was the first in the Maltese language on homosexuality. It garnered extensive media coverage on publication in 1997. In its ban, the MCCV, which runs the Centre, said it felt that the lecture had “no connection to literature” and was “all about the promotion of the Maltese gay movement”. On his part, Mr. Chetcuti, President of the Maltese Literature Group (MLG), said the MCCV made no attempt to discover the content of his lecture. “They went much further,” he says, “They appear to be threatening to disaffiliate the MLG if the group goes ahead with the lecture at another location.” MCCV president Victor Borg told the fortnightly publication he had no comment..

Mr. Chetcuti added that “Rather than providing real leadership… the MCCV has stereotyped all Maltese-Australians as bigoted, in an attempt to deny gay men and lesbians from having a real voice within our community.” President of the Australian Gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender and queer communities Multicultural Council (AGMC) Cinzia Ambrosio told BNews Melbourne Star “The AGMC believes that secular organisations who receive taxpayer money need to be reminded that they are just that – ‘secular’ organisations and should be separated from religion.”

Traveller's tales

Mitch R takes his father-in-law by surprise:

In 1994, my father-in-law Bill had just about recovered from his first fight with bowel cancer. It was obvious that during his treatment he had considered the fact he might not be around forever, and had been talking to me and Vicky (my wife at the time) about things he'd never done and places he'd never visted. Top of his list of places he wanted to visit was the Mediterranean island of Malta. We said we'd look into it as soon as he was fit to travel. Deciding we'd surprise him, we told him that Malta was far too expensive and was difficult to book. We told him that we would take him to Spain instead. Trying to hide his disappointment, he said that at least he'd get to see Spain, another place he'd never visited. It was a difficult job hiding it from him, he nearly found out several times.

The day came and off we went to the airport. One of us kept him distracted while we checked in, somehow managing to keep him from noticing the destination displayed above the check-in desk. After waiting the usual amount of time til boarding, finally the announcement came over the tannoy that boarding would commence for the flight to Malta. Jumping up and grabbing our hand-luggage, we smiled at the bewildered look on Bill's face. "But that's not our flight.....that one is going to Mal......". Then the penny dropped. Accompanied by a stream of good-natured grumbling and name-calling, we made our way to the plane. Bill grinning like the Cheshire cat all the way.

Flying in over the island, the first impression you get is that it's quite a dry island, there was more brown than green in view. We were staying at a hotel in Marsascala, at the south-eastern tip of Malta. The town is built around a small harbour and is relatively quiet and friendly. HERE is a link to the Wikipedia entry for the town, which is quite informative. Considering the relatively small size of the island, there is quite a lot to see, Malta has a long history. Bill's main reason for wanting to visit was his admiration for the Maltese people and their bravery in the face of constant attacks from the Axis forces during WWII. Here's a little of what Wiki says about that period...

Clock ticks

Malta's spring bird hunt is in full swing for what could be the last time before the country is taken to court accused of violating the EU Birds Directive, writes Stephen Mulvey of the BBC.

..The Maltese Government says the spring hunting season can be justified under the EU Birds Directive, because the migratory patterns of the quail and turtle dove make it impractical to hunt them in the autumn. The European Commission rejects this argument and is reportedly pushing ahead with infringement proceedings at full speed. It sent the Maltese authorities a first warning in March 2006, and is expected to progress to the next stage of the proceedings later this year, possibly in July, after which the case will be handed to the European Court of Justice.

Birdlife Malta argues that "judicious" autumn hunting of the quail and turtle dove - which the directive might permit under certain conditions - is a contradiction in terms, because their populations are declining or depleted. The Federation for Hunting and Conservation Malta argues that spring is the best time of year to enjoy the countryside. "This is yet another reason why autumn hunting is not a 'satisfactory solution' as a replacement for spring traditional hunting in Malta," the group says on its website. "Just the weather and the feeling of nature itself, are totally different."

Andre Raine says the sheer concentration of hunters makes some sites "no-go areas" for the public until the season ends on 20 May, and that birdwatchers can get a hostile reception. Leonard Caruana of Malta's Ministry of Rural Affairs and the Environment says the maximum penalty for hunting protected species has been increased to up to 14,000 euros and two years' imprisonment , and is now one of the toughest in the European Union. Police, soldiers and environment inspectors are constantly patrolling hunting areas, he says.

But Birdlife Malta says the 27 police and 50 soldiers assigned to the task are unable to keep track of thousands of hunters, while the hunters - sometimes communicating by radio - can easily keep track of the officers of the law.

Magical melting pot

Despite a long and troubled history, the Maltese continue to talk in all the tongues of their conquerors effortlessly and nearly always with a smile writes Brian Johnston for Perth Now in Australia:

Surrounded by the blue Mediterranean, Malta is a fascinating melting pot of cultures and history...When it comes to language, Malta is confusing. Maltese is related to Arabic, but turn on the TV and there's a blast of Italian, from across the sea. Many locals also use idiosyncratic English, a legacy of the British who controlled the island until the 1960s. Malta also came under the Romans, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Knights of St John and the French. The Maltese are enjoying their independence, but one can feel the weight of their history in every syllable.

"Good evening'' sounds like French (bonsoir), "excuse me'' like Italian (skuzi), but "please'' sounds like - well, I never did work out how to pronounce jekk joghgbok. Unravelling the language and history of Malta is one of the great pleasures of a visit to this tiny Mediterranean country. It starts at Ghar Dalam in the east of the island, where we visit a prehistoric cave and inspect the remains of a dwarf elephant and hippo. Then, we see the Maltese- built sophisticated temples. Tarxien is the best known, but looks like a jumble of old stones. Better to head to Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which impress with monumental entrances and a spectacular setting high above the sea.

The temple people disappeared mysteriously to be replaced by tunnelling early Christians. The Romans called their underground passageways hypogea. The best are at Hal Saflieni, near Tarxien, where we descend 7m into a labyrinth of carved and painted underground chambers. In Rabat's catacombs, 1000-year-old skeletons line the walls - a sight not for the squeamish, but actually strangely moving. Inside the church in Rabat, there is also the grotto in which St Paul sheltered when shipwrecked off Malta in AD60. Legend has it that stone taken from the grotto will grow again, but a caretaker in the corner ensures we don't put this claim to the test..

Public transport is frequent and a good alternative, allowing a glimpse of island life. The dilapidated Ford buses are easy to use, provided you aren't unnerved by the drivers, who peer through windscreens covered with dangling Virgin Mary replicas and stickers imploring "Holy Face of Jesus Save This Bus''. Either way, with just a few prayers we can be on the northern coast, where resort towns straggle for kilometres: St Julian's, Bugibba, Mellieha Bay, Paradise Bay. Sadly, no one will be admiring these concrete blocks in centuries to come, and Australians will be unimpressed with the beaches crammed with northern European sunworshippers.

Most Valletta streets were named after Italian saints and the occasional archbishop. When the British came along they added Abercrombie, Hastings and Victoria. Even the grand old Duke of York got an avenue. Cricket, red telephone boxes and a liking for custard tarts were also left behind. The secret to appreciating Malta is to look and listen to the words that are all around...