Bewitching Gozo - Part 1

Jennifer DePaul, a Cabinet correspondent who writes for the Bedford Journal, writes about 'the ancient temples and lush countryside in bewitching Gozo'.

Imagine yourself on the most tranquil, isolated, sunshine-filled island for one week. You have no worries. You feel at peace with your surroundings and time seems to slow down. Well, this isn’t an imaginary place, this island is Gozo, also known as the island of Calypso. Miles away from ordinary, in the midst of the Mediterranean Sea is a group of three Maltese islands and one of them is called Gozo.

A calm, clear, deep blue water surrounds the island. Legend has it the nymph Calypso seduced and held the Greek hero, Odysseus, prisoner for seven years here on his journey home from Troy. This relatively unknown island may be small but it is rich in culture, history and beauty. The only way to visit is on the Gozo Channel Ferry, a quick 25-minute ride from Malta that runs nearly every 45 minutes all day long. The ferry also provides a close-up view of Comino, the third and smallest Maltese island.

As the Gozo Channel Ferry docked at Mgarr Harbor, a surge of salt air filled my nostrils, and I was surrounded by nearly 75 fishing boats bobbing up and down in the wake of our boat. The ever-present sun illuminated the mystical countryside and jagged coastline only a couple hundred yards ahead of me. A sudden surge of excitement and anticipation shot through my blood as I was about to step foot on this new land.

Honey-colored clay houses pepper the landscape. Although there is a sparse tree cover (primarily carob and fig trees), farmers employ terrace-cultivation to grow a variety of Mediterranean fruits and vegetables. Hundreds of lush, green flat-topped hills are filled with stone terraced farms and vineyards. Gozo’s animals are mainly represented by insects, green lizards and several small types of birds.

The countryside is scattered with self-contained villages around a handful of Catholic baroque-style churches. There are 57 churches on the island — one for every 500 residents. One — St. John the Baptist church — dwarfs everything in sight and contains the third largest dome in all of Europe.

Although some travel guides claim a visitor can explore the island by either walking or biking, this is completely unrealistic for the average tourist who is not training for the Tour de France. The island of Calypso only has an area of 14 kilometers by seven kilometers but there are enough steep hills to wear out a tourist almost immediately. Public transportation includes a bus system. Its services are rather unreliable and infrequent. Renting a car proved to be the best method, and I was able to see all the key attractions and do a little exploring on my own.

One can see all of the charming beaches, villages and numerous archaeological sites within one or two days. I should mention that only the very adventurous should rent a car. Only a couple decades ago, Britain ruled the Maltese islands. While islanders gained independence, British tradition is still alive, and you will you have to learn how to drive a standard shift if you don’t already and adjust to driving on the opposite side of the road. This takes a good deal of mental stamina.

There were several instances when I failed to remember this rule while enjoying the impressive scenery and nearly got into a collision. But, when in Gozo, do as the Gozitans. Be prepared to plan ahead. Citizens of both Malta and Gozo are devout Catholics and all normal activity shuts down on Sundays. As I drove through village after village, it appeared as if I was traveling through ghost towns, with only a stray dog or cat shuffling along in the streets and the sound of church bells.