Worth a Troy

Kerry McCarthy wrote this piece in January for the British Sunday newspaper The People:

Mediterranean - Malta's worth a Troy!

Top stars like Brad Pitt in the film Troy and Colin Farrell in the Alexander movie have been sampling the delights of Malta. So I jumped on a plane to find out what all the fuss is about. Three hours later and I was there. No sign of Brad, so I thought I should explore the island which, until recently, was better known as a kiss-me-quick holiday destination. Thanks to epics like Gladiator, also shot on the island, Malta is now a Mediterranean honeypot for Hollywood film-makers and has long ago left behind its bucket-and-spade image.

My first stop was the neighbouring island of Gozo. With some friends, I joined a jeep safari trip. Our driver was more than happy to fill us in on the history of the place during our bumpy and fairly rustic ride. A few short stops to take in the fishing bay of Dahlet Qorrot, the red sand beach at Ramla Bay and the impressive salt pans at Marsalforn Bay came before a relaxing catamaran trip to the island of Comino. A chance to snorkel and swim, not to mention snooze on board the boat, was welcome. Unfortunately, probably thanks to all alcohol being free, the long trip back to dry land resembled an 18-30s initiation ritual.

One of the best things about Malta is the food. If you're a seafood lover, you'll be in heaven. The harbours are host to restaurants stuffed full with fresh catch of the day. And there's nowhere better to sample fishermen's fare than La Dolce Vita restaurant in St Julian's. It's a favourite with visiting celebrities and its walls are adorned with the faces of the rich and famous. Brad was still proving elusive, but the superb food, bustling atmosphere and excellent staff made it a night for my stomach to remember.

After a dubious encounter with the St Julian's night life - think Irish- themed karaoke bars - we woke to a tour of capital city, Valletta. A guided half-day tour takes in the impressive Barraca Gardens, from which you'll get superb views of the Grand Harbour featured in upcoming blockbuster Alexander. After visiting various churches and other points of natural beauty, our tour guide was reluctant, despite our pleas, to take us to the bar where Oliver Reed is said to have dropped dead after an epic drinking binge while filming Gladiator. But we did persuade him.

Make sure you book a tour or buy a good guide book. There's lots to see, so it's a good idea to know what ancient building you're looking at. And take some ear plugs, if you're a light sleeper. As everything is within walking distance, even the most exclusive hotels are just a stone's throw from noisy night clubs. Despite its undoubted charms, Malta still is a bit brash, so I would prefer it as a short-break holiday destination, to grab some Mediterranean sun and escape the
everyday cares of home. Unless you spot Brad Pitt, right, in which case I might even consider moving there.