From Monaco to Malta

Aangirfan in Monaco posts this report of a Malta visit. From the pierre joubert blog:

The best thing about any holiday to Malta is meeting the Maltese. Invite yourself into one of their homes. In Rose Marie's home, in a tenement in the dark back streets of Marsa, I supped Hopleaf, admired the plastic flowers and the photos of the Liverpool team, and chatted to the family. The water had been cut off for several days and so washing the baby was a problem. The baby had been to London for treatment for a heart condition. Rose Marie was a sweet Maltese girl. Rose Marie's family took me to their wooden hut in a dark fishing harbour beneath some cliffs. By the light of an oil lamp we dined off pesce spada and local wine."..

In a gloomy flat in dockland I visited an elderly gent called Joseph, a heavy character who claims he once helped to break into the headquarters of a certain political party. Joseph told tales of alleged murders committed by supporters of one party. "I will always support Labour," said Joseph, who was sitting on an old iron bed beneath a picture of Christ. Over thirty years ago, Joseph's Labour comrades suggested he was gay. A nervous breakdown was followed by shock treatment and strong drugs. Joseph was out of work and sick for twenty years..

The landscape (apart from Valletta) is not necessarily world class. It is not in the same league as Capri or Amalfi in nearby Southern Italy. But, Valletta and the Three Cities are rather special. I know of nowhere else in the world to compare with the Grand Harbour in terms of harbours. Rio de Janeiro? Monte Carlo? Then there are the walks and cycle rides along bosky lanes in Spring : poppies, geraniums, anemones, meadow saffron, tamarisks, wild orchids, narcissus... and then a glass of Maltese wine in a little bar called 'England Forever. 'There are dreamlike waterfronts, medieval hill top towns, giant red and golden flags, tall cacti....There are cafes and bars hidden down back streets in remote villages; and there you may find antique juke boxes and cute Catanian girls playing pool...

Religion is on the decline. Sadly. But, the churches still get crowded with people of all ages. The youthful choirs are lyrical! And, there are still some interesting religious festivals. Go to GHAXAQ on Festa night, when all the little hobbity creatures with their white faces and bent backs, and all the beautiful girls in their best dresses, pack the square in front of the baroque church. It grows dark. Suddenly she appears. Mary! Cheers are followed by wild clapping and singing; and deafening fireworks as the statue progresses through the narrow streets...